‘Every Chef Must Learn Here’: Modest Turkish Eatery Earns Fourth on List of London’s Best Food Spots.

Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. However, tucked high among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has made the owners totally shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest shop achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary triumph.

George Hanson
George Hanson

Lena is een ervaren onderwijsjournalist en studiekeuze-expert. Ze helpt scholieren met onafhankelijk advies.