Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a global network of cities cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to explore these narratives and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
